History of Maryland Wine

To be published in The Maryland Wine Press - Spring/Summer 2012

The earliest record of winemaking in Maryland dates back to1648. During the decades that followed Governor Charles Calvert attempted to plant 200 acres of European grapes on Maryland soil, but the vineyard attempt failed. Havre de Grace native, John Adlum, published America’s first narrative on viticulture and winemaking in 1823. In response to the nation’s mounting interest in the industry, Maryland established its Society for Promoting the Culture of the Vine in 1829.

Baltimore Sun columnist, PhillipWagner, published American Wines and How to Make Them in 1933. The text, later revised as Grapes into Wine, is referenced as the most definitive book on winemaking in America. The state’s first bonded winery, Boordy Vineyards, opened in Riderwood in 1945. During the latter half of the mid 1900’s many wineries opened and a few closed. It was not until the emergence of Maryland’s Grape Growers Association, in 1981, that the commercial grape growers in the state created a collaborative effort to improve the standards of grape growing in the state. Between 1983 and the turn of the century there was an influx of emerging wineries and the formation of American Viticulture Areas (AVA’s) throughout the state. In 1983 alone, three vineyards opened as well as Maryland’s first AVA in 1984. The Maryland Wineries Association was founded, birthing Maryland’s first Wine festival in 1984. Between 1986 and the year 2000 an additional four wineries opened, the Catoctin AVA formed and the state’s first Wine in the Woods festival was held.

Since the year 2000, over 30 wineries have begun production and opened to the public in Maryland. There are now 54 wineries that make up the Maryland Wineries Association. Local and legislative support have undoubtedly united winemaking as an industry, which has made the emergence of so many new businesses possible and endurance of already established commerce attainable.